mattbell

At the local indoor rock climbing gym, all the routes are given names.  Usually the routes in a given area all have names along a similar theme -- eg whiskies, Shakespeare plays etc. 

One section of the gym has routes named after sweeteners. 

"Sucralose, aspartame, saccharin, xylitol, Jessica, fructose, glucose"

Jessica?  I'm sure there's a story.  Maybe it's one of the route setters' girlfriends.  In any case, despite her sweet demeanor, the run by her name is one hell of a challenge.  However, it's a very interesting run, with lots of lateral moves and unusual holds.  I found myself drawn to Jessica, but repeatedly rebuffed by her (5.11a) tricky route.  I tried to get to the top several times over the last month, usually falling 4-5 times along the way if I made it to the top at all.  I had much of the route memorized.  Obsession brewed.  I worried that the route would be taken down before I had a chance to make a clean ascent.

Yesterday, we all decided to film each other at the gym to study our technique, so I happened to get onto film my first successful clean attempt at topping, err.. mounting... uh... summiting, conquering, climbing... oh I give up... Jessica. 



If anyone wants to give climbing a try (if you can climb a ladder, you can do a beginner route!), let me know.  This Friday is bring-a-guest-free day.

I suppose a fall from 2000 feet is no more lethal than a fall from 100 feet, but the idea of someone doing a solo high-speed ascent of El Capitan with only occasional use of safety equipment is mind-blowing.


It's amazing what people can pull off when their bodies and minds are highly adapted to a particular task.