Topping Jessica

[mattbell]

At the local indoor rock climbing gym, all the routes are given names.  Usually the routes in a given area all have names along a similar theme -- eg whiskies, Shakespeare plays etc. 

One section of the gym has routes named after sweeteners. 

"Sucralose, aspartame, saccharin, xylitol, Jessica, fructose, glucose"

Jessica?  I'm sure there's a story.  Maybe it's one of the route setters' girlfriends.  In any case, despite her sweet demeanor, the run by her name is one hell of a challenge.  However, it's a very interesting run, with lots of lateral moves and unusual holds.  I found myself drawn to Jessica, but repeatedly rebuffed by her (5.11a) tricky route.  I tried to get to the top several times over the last month, usually falling 4-5 times along the way if I made it to the top at all.  I had much of the route memorized.  Obsession brewed.  I worried that the route would be taken down before I had a chance to make a clean ascent.

Yesterday, we all decided to film each other at the gym to study our technique, so I happened to get onto film my first successful clean attempt at topping, err.. mounting... uh... summiting, conquering, climbing... oh I give up... Jessica. 

If anyone wants to give climbing a try (if you can climb a ladder, you can do a beginner route!), let me know.  This Friday is bring-a-guest-free day.

Comments

[weiskind.livejournal.com]

Awesome! And Scot and his crew were back in that cave this morning, so you probably just managed to get her . . . er, done, before they changed up that wall. ;-)

I just tried her out for the first time on Sunday and stopped with no real feeling of defeat at that hold that was foiling you when last I saw you at the gym. That hold sucks! :-)

[nasu-dengaku.livejournal.com]

Oh wow... I did it just in time. That route's been up since late June, when 5.11a routes were forbidding and unattainable. :-)

[djdigit.livejournal.com]

I've read that Vibrams work for "climbing", but it wasn't first-hand info from an individual who's actually done it. Do you use standard climbing shoes (that's what it looks like in the vid) or your Vibrams? One of the reasons I got them was to perhaps use them for climbing (I have climbing shoes as well, but they're uncomfortable). That wasn't the only reason I got 'em, so it's no big deal if they don't work for climbing for some reason. Have you tried climbing with your five-fingers? Thoughts?

[nasu-dengaku.livejournal.com]

I've never tried using Vibrams for climbing -- I'm guessing they would put a lot of stress on one or two toes. I spent a lot of time trying different climbing shoes before concluding that the uncomfortable ones were no better at helping me stay on small holds than the comfortable ones. I got lace-up Mythos La Sportivas and have really liked them.

[girlpurple.livejournal.com]

Our friend T tried climbing w/ Vibrams... they were OK for easy routes but as soon as he moved into more-than-5.9 range, they weren't serving him well.