
Today I realized that Hanoi is basically the real-life equivalent of those webpages that have dozens of obnoxious banner ads that blink, shake, dance, and do whatever it takes to get your attention. Every five seconds or so, somebody makes a noise or visible motion to get your attention. There's an astonishing variety of noises, from "hey you", to whistles, to bird noises, to grunts, to the sort of sound that a gay man might make to cruise me. The latter one is especially funny when a motorcycle taxi driver does it while patting the back seat of his motorbike. I would love to transport one of those guys to the Castro in San Francisco and watch him try to get some business.
The worst ones are the ones that physically get in your way. Even old ladies carrying two baskets of bananas balanced on a long pole will purposefully move their baskets to block your way. You wouldn't push an old lady... or at least, you wouldn't push the first one who tries it. The second one, on the other hand...
I've made a rule of only buying from people who do not resort to extreme measures to get my attention. It's positive reinforcement, though my ability to provide meaningful training of an entire country full of salespeople is limited. If all the other tourists did it... The trouble is that the loud sell probably works on average. People who make their lives selling things probably have some idea what they're doing, even if they can't spot the right technique to use on me.
Yesterday as I was walking past a woman who was loudly trying to get me to buy replica watches, I suddenly turned to her and tried to sell her my bag of fruit. I insisted that she look at them. She laughed. I laughed. Maybe she got it.
Then there were the motorcycle taxi drivers who came into my sleeping compartment when I arrived by train into Hanoi at 5am. They woke me up and asked for my hotel name and bag. (A common scam involves motorcycle taxis taking you to a sham hotel with a similar name to yours.) I told them "no" a few times in both my language and theirs, along with "go away". They kept hovering. I closed the door partially. They reopened it. I closed it and locked it. They stayed outside for 5 minutes while I packed, occasionally banging on the door. When I finally opened the door to the horde of them, they were blocking my way, shouting "Moto? Where you go?". I body-checked the first one hard against the side of the train compartment, and the rest left me alone. I don't have much of an asshole side, but these people are working hard on nurturing it.
On the other hand, I've found the majority of Hanoi residents to be very nice.